Walk, swim, eat, walk, pack could sum up today but perhaps I'd better put a bit more detail in! The day started warm and sunny and we travelled the rest of the way down the peninsula we are staying on to reach Shakespear Regional Park at the end. There were several areas to visit and we chose a beach to start with. We got in conversation with a lady, originally from the UK but a resident here for over 20 years and she told us how the area had developed during that time.

We then moved the car to another area and did a very pleasant walk - quite a lot of up and down again but today out in the open instead of in native bush as yesterday. We reached a lookout about half way and had 360 degree views of the surrounding land and sea - stunning! Then, hot and sweaty again, we decided to cool off in the sea and went to another beach in the park. Although a bit chilly, it was just what we needed. Of course then we had the problem of getting the swimming things dry for packing tonight. In the event, just leaving them in the car on the dashboard did the trick as it was so hot!

View towards Auckland from our walk

Lunch followed - a very basic affair sitting on the grass in the shade at yet another beach. We felt a drink other than water was in order, though and to get this we had to leave the park. In nearby Gulf Harbour - a new marina village - we found iced mocha drinks which fitted the bill and sat near the yachts drinking and thinking how unlike us, all these surroundings were! We have seen many marinas such as this during our time here and there are lots of boats in them but one has to wonder if they are ever used! Mind you we did watch some yachts in a race last night as we sat on our terrace and there must have been at least 10 of them racing!

After our drinks we returned to the park and went for another walk. This time in native bush. I should tell you that most of this park is protected by a predator fence, which keeps out rats and possums and the like which would eat the eggs and young of the native NZ birds, given the chance. NZ birds have suffered very badly from such predators over the years. These predators are, of course, not native to NZ but introduced by colonists. It is difficult to eradicate these predators and most sanctuaries for birds are on islands, where it is easier to do this. Hence our visit to Stewart Island.

All one very large tree!

Our walk took us along a gully which led to a waterfall but as they have had little rain here since Christmas it was just a trickle! However we did see lots of tuis and fantails and Steve tried his best to get photos of them!

 A tui

By the middle of the afternoon we had returned to our motel, which was just as well because it tipped it down! It didn't last too long and we now have a lovely evening. Steve is currently photographing a spectacular sunset.

Sunset over Whangaparoa

Sunset looking the other way from our terrace

We now have to go and pack - you may say that's not news as you do it every few days - but this time it is major packing and getting everything into two cases and two pieces of hand luggage as we prepare to leave NZ and fly to Melbourne tomorrow. I think it is quite likely that we will not post a blog tomorrow, what with flying and then being two hours back but we'll see what we can do!

Lots of unexpecteds today! We said goodbye to Cable Bay at 9.30 and began our long journey back south to near Auckland. Our first surprise was at our coffee stop in Kawakawa. We knew they had some famous toilets there - yes toilets! - as we had seen a photo of them in a brochure but had no idea that much of the town had been taken over by those wishing to emulate the work of Hundertwasser, an Austrian artist, who lived in Kawakawa.

Hundertwasswer's toilets exterior

One of the Hundertwasser toilet cubicles

Our photos best explain Hundertwasser's style but it reminded us of Gaudi. Having had coffee first we were able to explore not only the toilets but also several shop fronts and a community art gallery with art that made us smile! Again photos will explain. Unfortunately part of the gallery had suffered from a land slip and we weren't able to view it all.

Amazing, amusing community art in Kawakawa

Steve amusing himself with the art

We got to Whangerai in time for lunch and returned to the quayside to a favourite restaurant from our visit in 2011. We were able to have lunch and buy things for our evening snack as well. It was very warm by now - 26C!

Clock museum in Whangerei

As we got further south, the roads got busier and eventually we were glad to leave the main road and return to Wenderholm Regional Park (we visited it on the way up) in order to have a walk. Last week when we were there we had only done a very short walk and we thought we would tackle something a bit longer this time. In fact, we did the perimeter walk. This wasn't all that far - about 3 miles - but what we didn't realise till we were doing it was that it involved a good deal of uphill and the quality of the path went from walking track to tramping track! This is the NZ way of saying it goes from an easy path with gravel, boardwalk and steps, to difficult terrain, clambering over roots and steep gradients! So surprise no.2! We enjoyed the challenge and were rewarded with some great views of the surrounding estuaries and sea. Mind you we sweated buckets in the process!

Californian Quail seen on our walk

Looking over the Puhoi estuary

Our accommodation for our last two nights in NZ is in Whangaparoa, which is just north of Auckland. Our intention was to be within reasonable distance of the airport but not in the city as we visited it last time we were here. Whangaparoa fits the bill nicely and is near another regional park with walks and birds. Our 3rd surprise is our lovely room and another lovely view. We can see the sea again and this time we are looking towards the Coromandel Peninsula and some of the islands in the Hauraki Gulf. You won't get a photo of that today because Steve seems to have gone on strike since we got here! I think he's a bit tired after our walk!

By the way, for those of you who are wondering about our fancy shower head from our last place - it worked very well despite looking like a hub with spokes!

It wasn't the most promising of mornings! When the alarm went off for an early start to Cape Reinga we didn't get up. We have the blind drawn back so it is easy to see our lovely view, except that it wasn't a lovely view it was wet and misty! We didn't quite turn over and go back to sleep but we didn't leap out raring to go.

By the time we had had breakfast we could see breaks in the clouds and things were definitely improving. We left just after 9am and headed off for the very tip of North Island. Most people who make this trip do so in coaches and they usually go along 90 Mile Beach one way and back down the road. 90 Mile Beach is almost what it says - it is actually 90km which is quite a bit less but anyway is a very long beach, backed by dunes (more of those later). It is fine for coaches to drive on the beach and even 4WD but not hire cars and certainly not Toyota Corollas! However, so we wouldn't miss out on the experience altogether, we went down to the place where the coaches go onto the beach. Although lovely I think it could get a bit boring travelling along 90km of sand and dunes!

Coaches beginning the '90 mile' beach drive

Having looked at the beach we then continued on the road in a northerly direction. Our next stop was much further north and was at the point where the coaches come off the beach. In order to do this they have to drive up the Te Paki stream - yes actually up the stream! It is very shallow admittedly but you mustn't stop as there are areas of very soft sand and you could easily get stuck!

Vehicle starting to descend Te Paki stream

Enormous sand dunes at Te Paki

Also at this point there are absolutely huge sand dunes, probably at least 500 feet high, which you can "surf" down on a board if you so desire. It looked like a young and mad person's activity so we just photographed. Journeying on, we soon came to Cape Reinga. It is a very special place for the Maoris and one can understand why. They believe that when people die their spirits come here to climb down the old pohutukawa tree that grows right on the end and then jump into the sea to go to the next world.

Cape Reinga lighthouse

Not only is it at "the end" of NZ it is also the place where the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific and the waters are anything but pacific! By now the weather was perfect but even on such a lovely day the waters were troubled. You also get wonderful views down the coasts each way and particularly to Cape Maria van Diemen, which is the most westerly point of North Island.

Cape Maria van Diemen

By now we were getting rather hungry and as you are requested not to eat or drink at the Cape as it is a sacred place we moved on to Tapotupotu Bay for lunch. This is a delightful cove with crashing waves and even with picnic tables so it seemed perfect - except that we had only been there a few minutes when two coach loads of people arrived to share it with us!

On our drive back down we stopped at Rarawa Beach. We had read that it had the finest white sand - so fine it squeaked when you walked on it - and had to find out if it was true! Well the answer is that it was exceptionally fine and sort of squeaked when you walked on it! It was a beautiful beach and we enjoyed paddling in the warm pools of water left by the outgoing tide and indeed in the sea itself. We were pleased to share this beach with a few pied stilts.

On Rarawa beach

As we came south the weather did deteriorate again and we came through a heavy shower but since reaching Cable Bay it has been fine. We have enjoyed fish and chips from a recommended place in nearby Mangonui, whilst sitting on our balcony and now, even though the sun has set, we still have our patio doors wide open. Actually we haven't because as I wrote that, something unwanted flew in and Steve has shut them!

We have been fairly laid back today, beginning with a later start than some mornings. After breakfast we went in search of a supermarket and found one in nearby Cooper's Beach. It was actually a very well stocked one and we were able to buy the ingredients for our evening meal without any problem. We decided that we would like to cook for ourselves as we have such a lovely kitchen setup.

On returning from the shop we had coffee and then set off on a trip round the nearby Karikari Peninsula. Our first stop was at Rangiputa beach but we didn't stop for long as the tide was up and there was no beach to walk on. We went on to Puheke beach which was a beautiful dune-backed stretch of golden sand, with turquoise sea crashing in. Because we had come along an unsealed road we had thought it would be deserted but there were several other cars there and a couple of campervans.

Crashing waves on Puheke beach

At the back of the beach was a hill called Mount Puheke and we decided we would climb it. The slope didn't seem too bad from sea level but was pretty steep in some places and I was very glad to have my sticks! We made it to the top though, despite being rained on for part of the climb. The whole time we were on the hill we were surrounded by lots of small blue butterflies, which Steve managed to photograph with some success! Photographing butterflies is never easy as they fly off or refuse to open their wings when resting!

Puheke beach from the top of Mount Puheke

One of thousands of small blue butterflies

On many days when we have been driving we have seen kingfishers. This sounds like a great coup as they are difficult to spot at home. However here they are two a penny and often to be seen sitting on the telephone wires! They aren't as spectacular as ours either, lacking the electric blue and orange but still look exactly like ours in shape and size. Today we saw several, including two within metres of each other!

We had our lunch at yet another beach, where again there was no dry sand to sit on, so we sat in the car! Then we continued our tour round the peninsula and returned to Cable Bay. We have spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing. Steve was able to have part of the England v Scotland cricket match on live from Christchurch and we both listened to some of the music we are supposed to be singing on our return home!

It has been a showery day though we escaped with only the shower on the hill. However we have been able to see the progress of many showers from our balcony over the afternoon and recently witnessed a spectacular rainbow across the bay! It has just rained here but it was all over in a few minutes.

Rainbow over Doubtless Bay

Tomorrow we intend to go to Cape Reinga, so are hoping for no rain! It is, of course, still pretty warm - low 20s!

Well no kiwis last night but we enjoyed our stay near Okiato Point and tonight we have another equally lovely place to stay in Cable Bay.

We took the car ferry from just below where we stayed last night across to Opua on the opposite coast and were soon speeding northwards through Paihia and Waitangi. We thought we would stop briefly at Mount Bledisloe - a viewpoint we went to last time - but try as we might we couldn't get to it without a good deal of walking and we decided against it. It is strange because last time we know we were able to park up fairly near the viewpoint and we must have followed signs for it. We can only assume either that Mount Bledisloe has moved or the powers that be do not want people to go there any more!

Instead of following the main road north we took the scenic route through Matauri Bay and Whangaroa. This promised more in the guide book than it delivered but maybe we are just suffering from scenic overload! Even the coffee stop was a bit below par and usually coffee is great everywhere in NZ. We did find a nice little beach at Tauranga Bay but didn't stay very long.
This Tauranga is a different one from the much bigger city further south for those of you who know NZ.

The beach at Tauranga Bay

We got to Manganui by lunch time and found a lovely cafe for some food, which restored our spirits! Manganui is also a pleasant place, with several restaurants which may be useful in the next few days. We walked the length of the seafront and found the information office helpful.

Cable Bay is just a few km further on from Manganui and rather more sizeable than we had thought. It is another lovely place and our accommodation gives us yet another great view! It has obviously paid off to come a little out of season and for three days as we have been upgraded from a studio to a 2 bedroomed apartment. This is over two floors so we have the view twice over! We do have a spare room if anyone is interested! Our facilities are excellent too with our own laundry room and a dishwasher! We have a shower head that I have never seen the like of before so will let you know how that works out!

Cable Bay from our bedroom

We are now pretty far north in North Island. There is only the very top narrow bit to go and we are hoping to get right up there to Cape Reinga in the next few days. Other than that we are hoping to chill out! Not that its cold though - even on a rather cloudy day it has been pleasantly warm.

Our accommodation from Cable Bay beach

Today we have been in paradise on two separate occasions! This country is so beautiful and it is hard to do it justice with a bit of description and a few photos. Yet again we feel privileged to be able to travel like this and experience such beauty.

We left Whangarei fairly late after Skyping with Sarah and then shopping at the local supermarket but we knew we hadn't too far to go for coffee! Last time we were here we visited the art gallery and cafe at Helena Bay and wanted to repeat the experience as we had enjoyed it so much. This interesting place is set high up above the coast with views over native bush down to the sea. The cafe has a terrace overlooking this, so paradise no.1 was drinking mochaccino and sharing a ginger slice here!

Helena Bay art gallery and cafe

We also enjoyed looking round the gallery and imagined the size of house we would need to accommodate all the lovely things we'd buy if we could! Thankfully we came to our senses and remembered our friend John (from Melbourne) and his wise words about people our age having too much stuff and therefore should go for good experiences instead!

The journey from Helena Bay to Russell - our destination today - was not far but seemed to take a long time as it winds around the coast. However we got to Russell in good time for lunch. Russell is a delightful little seaside town which has an interesting if somewhat disreputable past. It was known as the Hellhole of the Pacific in its early days owing to lawlessness among the whalers who frequented its bars. However it recovered enough to become the first capital of NZ after the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi - though not for long as the Governor moved the capital further south to get away from troublesome Maoris!

Typical Bay of Islands coastline

It was peaceful enough today though and we enjoyed a warm walk up to Flagstaff Hill to be rewarded by the views from there. You can see right across the Bay of Islands to Waitangi. There was also a lovely sun dial done in mosaic of a map of the area and I was pleased to get a photo of Steve sitting on Russell! We were also delighted to see another weka! We saw one on Stewart Island and this one walked across our path in the same manner as the first!

A legend seated on the legend 'Russell'

Paradise no.2 is where we are staying tonight. It is just a few km from Russell at the point where the car ferry goes across from the peninsula to the mainland. We have a delightful room with yet another great view! This time over an inlet and we have been able to sit on our verandah and watch the tide go out and come in again whilst observing the local bird life! Steve is really hoping a kiwi is going to walk past our window tonight as they are in this area!

Another legend enjoying a great view

Butterfly - to be identified

Weather not so good today but as we have been travelling for most of the time it hasn't mattered too much. We left Whitianga just before 9am and it had already rained there.

We got to Thames, at the bottom of the Coromandel Peninsula, in good time for a coffee! We had stopped at a nice garden centre cafe there last time and it was still there and just as nice this time! We also got sandwiches for lunch.

The first part of the journey had been very scenic but from Thames to Auckland it became much flatter and the roads straighter. Once you reach highway 1 a strange thing happens - you are on a motorway! As far as we know this is the only bit of motorway in NZ apart from a few miles near Dunedin that we went on! Further on another strange thing happened - we got in a traffic jam! That doesn't happen much in NZ either!

Of course, all this happened around Auckland, which is NZs biggest city. We didn't stop and just drove through, crossing the harbour bridge as we did so. While we were doing all this we had had several heavy showers, though nothing too long.

Once north of Auckland we came off the motorway, found a place to stop overlooking the sea and ate lunch. The weather continued to rain on and off but we were entertained by two families launching their motor boats off a nearby ramp.

Pohutukawa trees we think, seen everywhere

After lunch we went a little further on and found a regional park in which to have a walk. Initially we were staggered by the number of vehicles coming out of the car park but soon realised there was some event that had just finished. We still aren't sure exactly what was happening but it seemed to involve children and parents and the children were muddy, wet and barefooted! It also seemed to involve the sea or at least the mudflats where the sea had been! We also aren't sure why it was happening today - a school day! We don't think it was another public holiday! These kids are never at school!!

Sea view from the regional park

Well we had a pleasant walk around a headland and then returned to our journey. Today has been our longest day of travelling - 348km which is about 220 miles and not much of that was on the motorway. Tomorrow we make up for that with a much shorter drive.

A pukeko in the regional park

For one night only we are in Whangarei, which we visited for longer last time. It is the only place of any size north of Auckland. We have been into town to have a meal at The Fat Camel - an Israeli restaurant! Can't say we've been to one before but it was very good - basically middle-eastern flavours. We decided to sit outside as it was warm and we were in a narrow alley type of street. This was fine till it started to rain - nothing much to start with and we were under an umbrella but as it went on the umbrella started to drip at the edges. In the end it was a race as to who would win but I'm pleased to say we did and we are now home and dry!

Tomorrow we do not have any WiFi for the first time this holiday so will not be able to post our blog till Sunday. Sorry about that to you avid readers! However you should get a double dose then!

Another glorious day and another tick on our to-do list! After being woken by an altercation outside at 4am (it turned out to be a domestic between a couple known by the police) - we were still up early and ready to leave at 8.15!

Last time we were here we had on our list "walk to Cathedral Cove" but didn't manage it because it poured on the only day we had. Today was the opposite - wall to wall sun! Now this walk to CC -as I will call it - is 45mins each way and has some steep bits according to the literature. We knew it would be popular as "everybody goes" and given the forecast we knew it would be hot. So for all these reasons we set out early.

On the walk to Cathedral Cove

I should also add that you can go by boat to CC, although most boats don't drop you on the beach - just go and look and then go back. Oh and they charge quite a lot for all this!

We got to the car park at 8.45 and although busy there was plenty of space. We enjoyed the walk down to the beach with its glimpses every so often of beautiful coast and off-lying rocks and islands. We arrived at CC in about 40 mins and there were already a handful of people there. We knew the beach was in two parts, separated by an archway of rock - which gives the cove its name. What we didn't know was that the state of the tide decides whether you can get through the arch to the other half of the beach! Luckily we arrived as the tide was retreating and only had to wait a few minutes before we made the dash to get through - only suffering minor wetness of shorts!

The famous archway of Cathedral Cove

On the other half, again there were a few people but we were able to choose a good spot to sit. It is a lovely place and Steve was in his element photographing every aspect! We sat for a while and then enjoyed a swim in the turquoise water. It was a little rough at the edge but fine once you were in!

View through the arch

Irresistible cliff waterfall in foreground

As time went on we were joined by more and more people and at least 15 kayaks and their paddlers! Although it is a reasonable size it was beginning to feel a little crowded, so by 11am we felt it was time to depart. We must have passed at least 50 people coming the opposite way on our return walk so goodness what it was like by the afternoon!

Getting busy

The car park on our return was packed and it was easy to see why the authorities are keen people shouldn't overflow into the neighbouring community streets but there is nowhere else to park, except the next beach along, which adds 30mins to the walk.

We returned to Whitianga for a late coffee and then lunch. We spent the afternoon doing very little except a quick visit to the local supermarket. We have eaten again at our favourite restaurant, just down the road and now the light is fading again. Can't believe we have nearly had our 3 nights here and it is time to move on again. This is definitely a place to chill out and I think we have done a bit of that!

Relaxing on our balcony

The weather has been glorious today right from the start. Temperatures got up to the mid 20s and we had our breakfast outside on our balcony! Admittedly it was a little later than most mornings but we felt like being lazy!

In fact we have had a fairly lazy day. We walked into town after breakfast - well sauntered might be a better way of putting it - and decided on our eating plans for dinner. Then we returned to our motel for coffee and spent the rest of the morning relaxing with our view!

Whitianga harbour

After lunch we made a bit more of an effort and drove the 25 miles or so to Whangapoua, a little settlement north of here. It has a lovely beach, which we walked from end to end and back - a distance of about 2 miles. I have resisted the temptation to collect shells so far this holiday but couldn't do so any longer today. I chose some to take home for Emily, including a perfect clam and a black scallop. We had thought we might swim in the sea but it was a little rough by then (a pleasant breeze had sprung up) and we are easily put off!

Whangapoua beach

We journeyed back to Whitianga - stopping to view Kuaotunu beach on the way - it was a bit rough, rocky and seaweedy here! OK I know we are fussy! But just like Goldilocks we found the perfect place to swim - the other end of Mercury Bay from where we are staying. It was calm, sandy and weed free and reasonably warm - though Steve may disagree! It was very shallow so the top half of the water was warm even though the bottom half was a bit chilly! It has taken half the holiday to achieve but at last we enjoyed a swim in the sea!

Variable oystercatcher

We sat on the beach for a while before returning to town. We had decided to get a take away dinner from the local Italian restaurant. This worked out well as the food was good but our view was better than the restaurant's!

Tomorrow we have plans to be slightly more energetic but for today that's it - the sun has set and our lovely view is disappearing into the dusk - but the sound of the sea stays with us all night!

We left Rotorua this morning and continued north to our new destination of Whitianga. We surprised ourselves by leaving at 8.45am and getting to Matamata far too early for coffee - which is what we had planned! Matamata is apparently the place where the set for Hobbiton is situated for those of you into Tolkien! The information place seemed to have assumed the guise of the Hobbit's home and looked totally incongruous in the main street but I expect it was interesting for those who have seen the film!

Anyway we shunned coffee at this point and went on to Te Aroha - a little town with a beautiful park. We had visited this place last time we were here and knew it had a lovely outdoor swimming pool. We had coffee at a nearby cafe and then armed with our swimming cossies we went for a swim and soak in the jacuzzi! My back is still not great today but felt a lot better after all this! We had lunch at the same cafe and then resumed our journey.

Outdoor pool in The Domain, Te Aroha

Our next stop was at Karangahake Gorge. This was another site of gold mining and the remains of this are still to be seen at the side of the river. We managed a walk over several swing bridges - the sort that move alarmingly as you walk over them, along the river and then down an old railway tunnel for 1km! The latter was partially lit and a little damp in places but added a new element to our walking in NZ!

One of the swing bridges over the Karangahake Gorge

I had been using my walking poles and on the last leg of the walk was surprised to notice that the ferrule and collar at the bottom of one pole was missing! I was sure they must have come off in the tunnel and was reconciled to replacing them at a future date when Steve suggested walking back a little way to see if we could find them. We had only gone 100m or so (along the path - not the tunnel) when I spotted them! Of course I can't walk more than a few paces without checking them now!

At the exit of the 1km tunnel

The last part of the journey, whilst not all that far, was extremely twisty and windy. It goes past hillsides covered in pampas grass and small pines. We have become used to the NZ version of the pampas grass which is slightly different and is called toitoi but today's pampas was not toitoi. Further research may be needed on this!

Whitianga is a beautiful spot on the Coromandel Peninsula. I guess it is more or less level with Auckland but on a peninsula to the east. It is a popular holiday place and there are lots of boats in the marina but it is very peaceful here in our studio room with a view of the sea. We are hoping to have breakfast on our balcony tomorrow!

Whitianga prom

Virtually the view from our room